Vintage Booklet - Heian Military Ensemble :: Hairdressing in Vogue in Kyoto from End of Tokugawa to Beginning of Meiji :: Kamakura Boys Attire - Published Taisho 7 1918

            The Military Man in his "Mufti" in the Heian Period  (194 - 1194)

The following six pictures show a military man in his informal uniform.  He belongs to a soldier-class that sprang up first in the period.  He wears a tall pliable cap (tate-eboshi), and an outergarment called Kariginu of chestnut-coloured silk gauze scattered with "mokko" designs of quarterfoil shape.  A "Sashinuki", a kind of hakama, is gathered in just above the ankle.  He carries a long sword called "Hyogo gusari no tachi" hung from the waist with a chain, and a flute in hand.  he is shown at his pastime.  The sword is so named from the ancient maker belonging to the bureau that took charge of arms at the then Imperial court.  What we have used is an imitation work of a sword kept as a national treasure in the Itsukushima shrine.  On the hilt, the grip is covered with a tubercled skin of a shark.  The pommel and the edges of the hilt are plated with gold, and fine delicate wave-like designs are engraved on it.  The guard is of the "mokko" shape.  The sheath too, is covered with gold and ornamented with silver at the edges.  It has a design of a fabled hill known as "Horaisan" of the immortal genii, with its symbols of pine trees, turtles and cranes.  The gentleman who represents the military man is Mr. Ibuki, Chief Manager of Society, the dress and the sword being his possession, and the hakama belonging to our Society.

T. Ema,
Translated by K. Takigawa.

Taken on: June 25, 2012

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Taisho

Meiji

Kamakura

Heian

Military

Ensemble

Attire

Mufi

tate-eboshi

kariginu

mokko

sashinuki

hakama

hyogo gusari no tachi

Kyoto

Hawase

chocho

shimada

ryote

yoko-hyogo

wari-kanoko

momoware

mitsumage

takashimada

to-uchiwa

yuiwata

tojin-mage

tsubushi-shimada

matsuba-chocho

okisa

yotsume

tsubushi

suisho

kiri-tenjin

chu-shimada

saki-kogai

fuku-mage

futaba-momoware

matsuba-kuzushi

hyoyo

utsubo-hyogo

torin-hyogo

moto-yui

suikan

hi-ogi

kikutoji

kenuki-gata

平安

大正

明治

'徳川 '鎌倉

着物

袴

日本髪

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Sets appears in: • Vintage Booklet - Heian Military Ensemble :: Hairdressing in Vogue in Kyoto from End of Tokugawa to Beginning of Meiji :: Kamakura Boys Attire - Published Taisho 7 1918

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